Rechenberg 2015秋冬系列——藏区女性的颂歌

Designer Kathrin von Rechenberg’s Autumn/Winter 2015 Collection is inspired by the fabrics, colours and styles worn by women on the Tibetan plateau.

Beijing, 17 September, 2015: Followers of Rechenberg for the past 10 years and more have come to expect surprises in her two annual signature collections. The designs she has conceived for her latest Autumn/Winter Collection do not disappoint. A recent trip to the Tibetan plateau has clearly left a deep impression, inspiring remarkable, designs any woman would find it hard to resist – clothes that can be worn season after season for their timeless beauty and elegance.

The Collection was shown in her showroom, redecorated for the occasion with long felt bands of differing lengths to suggest at once the intimacy of a Tibetan temple or the warm interior of a Yurt and the infinity of the Tibetan plain or fluttering Tibetan flags.

The fabrics she works with include Cashmere, Merino wool and silk, woollen jersey and boiled wool. This year, however, there is the added excitement of soft, handmade felt made from the hair of the Yak, the huge, hairy beast that grazes over so much of the Tibetan plateau and is a staple of the Tibetan tribal economy for its soft hair, milk and meat.

Tibetan tribal women wear clothes designed for warmth and comfort. They must also be practical to allow their wearers to carry out their daily work, often outdoors in the chilly climate conditions of vast open plains. Yet they remain striking and timelessly elegant in their muted, earthy colours drawn from a palette that has black as its base and includes mustard, rust, iron grey, the orangey-red hues of Tibetan coral and of course the soft grey-beige of natural Yak. All these colours are to be found in the latest Rechenberg collection for Autum/Winter 2015.

Kathrin has taken the best of their features and characteristics to produce a classic and timelessly elegant collection in which coats and jackets are very long and draped, with close-fitting, cosy necklines. Trousers are wide and worn just above the ankle, often paired with blouses made of silk organza and tea-silk, that manage at once to be both voluminous and closely draped, combining raglan with spiral-cut, leg-of-mutton sleeves for a neatly fitted, draped look that is clearly very comfortable and practical. Coats and jackets are fastened with simple silver and blackened silver brooches, a nod at the jewels worn by Tibetan women, that are often family heirlooms. The overall look is softly falling, draped fabrics executed with sophisticated haute-couture detailing to envelope the wearer. This is contrasted with the feathery finery of natural hand-dyed organza and tea-silk mostly used for her evening wear designs.

Kathrin von Rechenberg’s constants have long been to focus on what is natural and sustainable. She has drawn her creativity for this collection from long-established Tibetan traditions, combined with the best that Nature has to offer, in this case, the wondrous colours of the immense Tibetan plateau, the handsome women who grace it and the cosy, comfortable clothes they wear. What better combination could one find for an Autumn/Winter collection!

在RECHENBERG2015秋冬系列中，设计师凯瑟琳的灵感源于甘南藏区女性的节日盛装般的日常穿着和她们与生俱来的骄傲，并从中汲取精髓，打造出这一季拥有舒适面料、独特颜色和考究剪裁的rechenberg服装。

2015.9.17，北京，Rechenberg十几年来的朋友们都翘首以待，rechenberg秋冬系列又将为他们带来怎样的惊喜?果然，设计师Kathrin的作品从来都没有令它们失望。一次藏区之行，给Kathrin留下了深刻的印象，也启发着她去创造所有女性都难以抵抗的其魅力的，代表着永恒美丽与优雅的服饰。

发布会在Rechenberg工作室内举行。这一次，观众们步入了一个由长短不一的黑色毡带布置的神秘意境。置身其中，您仿佛感触得到藏族寺庙的神圣，游牧民族帐篷的温暖，也许在某一瞬间，您也会觉得他们恰似那广袤的草原上飘动的经幡。

对于秋冬季节的服饰，rechenberg惯用的面料包括克什米尔羊绒、美利坚羊毛、真丝、羊毛绒和强缩绒等。而在这一季中，我们将有幸感受另一种面料—柔软舒适的手工制牦牛毡绒面料的魅力。牦牛是一种生长在藏区高原上的多毛畜种，以其柔软丰富的毛发和肉、奶等成为生活在高原上的人们的主要经济来源。

藏族女性的服饰更多的是为了满足保暖和舒适的需求，同时也因其常常要在寒冷开阔的户外条件下工作，还要确保服饰的实用性。即便如此，那朴实柔和的颜色还是赋予了衣物以恒久的美感和足以动人的力量。这些颜色以黑色为基底，调以芥黄、锈色、铁灰、橙红等藏区人们所崇尚的珊瑚色调，当然也有野生牦牛的浅褐色毛发的颜色。所有的这些颜色都在Rechengberg2015秋冬时装发布会上得到精彩的呈现。

Kathrin从藏区女性的气质中获得灵感，打造出这一季典雅，复古的秋冬时装系列。修长垂顺的大衣常常拥有合体舒适的领口。宽松及踝的长裤与欧根纱和香云纱面料上装的搭配产生了迷人自然的褶皱，加之极富特色的旋转袖插肩大衣，舒适且实用。大衣和夹克由简洁的银质胸针固定，与藏族女性佩戴的通常作为传家宝的首饰相呼应。与惯用手工染制的欧根纱和香云纱打造的华服相比，这些柔软垂顺的面料以及精致的高级定制工艺为穿着者提供了更舒适的穿着体验。

Kathrin一直着眼于崇尚自然和可持续发展的理念。在这一季的发布会中，她从历史悠久的藏族文化中汲取灵感，探寻着那片广袤天地间瑰丽的色彩和藏族女性所具有的融入灵魂的荣耀和端庄。所有的这些自然馈赠与人类的智慧结合的产物都在Rechenberg2015秋冬发布会上一睹为快!

Brooches are made in collaboration with Nicolas Favard.

The musicians, who interpreted the inspiration of the collection beautifully with their instruments, are:

Flutes - Wang Hua

Zither - Lao Luo

银质胸针合作者：法国首饰设计师尼古拉•法瓦赫。

笛箫演奏家王华和音乐家老锣为大家带来的辽阔空灵，意味绵长的现场音乐。